Citadel of silent pain


Here, in the citadel of silent pain

We can only read -

Of tales of some of the suffering souls

A fraction of their immortal deed

 

So many sons of the motherland dead

In these isles of a paradise sea

Do we even know the price they paid

That today we call ourselves free

 

The pilgrims who know flock one by one

To Veer Savarakar’s lonely cell,

While the hundred other Veers in the other cells

Stare and cry and silent wail

 

I look at the locks, the tetris bricks,

Guilt at our youth, our uselessness

Whatever we do, will it be enough

To face one martyr’s teary gaze?

 

If only these ochred walls could speak

Could we complete a single tale?

Instead, we take photos and tag the world,

‘Look, I have visited Cellular Jail!’

 

Hundreds of names adorn the walls

From Punjab, Bengal, Madras, Bihar,

There are thousands more, forgotten names

Unknown soldiers, interred this far

 

I climb atop the Cellular – star,

There’s so much gloom I cannot drink,

The tricolour flutters in the sunset far

Another ordinary day comes to sink

 

Drowned in guilt, I ask again

Even it be on the best of our days -

Whatever we do, will it be enough

To face one martyr’s teary gaze?

 

The flag flutters, I hear it say,

Keep the lessons, remember, relearn

That the souls who give, they never ask

What is it that comes in return

 

They gave that you can take today,

All of the joy, some of the pain

Of the empty wounds that never heal

Indelible shades of an invisible stain

 

The least we can do as we walk today,

Sons of the same Mother that we are

Is to remember these walls, the tales within

Once upon a time, was a bleeding scar…

 ________________________________

Written after a visit to the Cellular Jail, Port Blair, Andamans.

While most of us are delighted to see the paradise islands of Andaman when we fly into Port Blair – complete with cerulean seas, white sands: indeed, the best beaches in the county – a visit to the Cellular Jail, Kalapaani, comes as a morbid shock in Paradise. It was here, so far from the mainland (the islands are closer to Myanmar than India), that hundreds of freedom fighters were jailed, tortured, maimed and boxed inside an unthinkable life from which there was no redress. Many were driven to insanity, the rest tortured to death – only a thin sliver of inmates made it back to tell their tales. The atrocities were limited not just by the British Empire, but also by the Imperial Japanese who had briefly taken over these islands in 1942. In a rare glimpse of hope for the freedom movement, it was in the Andamans in 1943 that Netaji Subhas Bose hoisted the National Flag and declared it to be the first Indian soil liberated from British rule.

 The stories of horror were already carved deep within the walls by then – years later, in 1979, the Cellular Jail was declared a National Memorial by Prime Minister Morarji Desai. Today, the Andamans are a rising tourist destination, with luxury towers popping up along the soothing turquoise coastline of Port Blair and its adjoining islands; yet it takes just one visit to the  Cellular Jail to hear visceral stories that can show that Paradise depends not just on the content of nature but also on the intent of the people who live – or once, lived there.

As I was walking inside the Jail that day, I wondered for a brief moment, if we had to keep these painful memories. The answer was a resounding Yes – even if these were memories we wouldn’t want to remember, more importantly, these were memories we shouldn’t be allowed to forget, such are the ways of the Past that has led to the paths of the future….




Images: Author's archives 



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