Stupa

 


I stare at carved panels

And wonder -

Is this how Sanchi would look

Trapped inside a hall?

Two thousand years of history

At least some have been preserved

The surreal work of the Sungas

A lost world carved in stone

 

But most people rush by -

They don’t even know what these ruins are,

Like any other debris

Gathering dirt in a showcase

But if you touch a piece of stone

Perhaps the lotus, the wheel -

You will get transported

To the Bharhut of golden times

 

A large stupa, ornate gateways

And the Buddha’s last remains -

Maybe you can see its birth

Piyadasi’s dreams, a Hellenistic touch;

But careful - one wrong breath,

Or a grumbling whisper

And they all come crashing down;

Bharhut reduced to ruins

 

But wait, do you see it?

A reliquary left behind

Its path hidden in these very rocks

Breathing life, whispering the truth

The treasure visible to those alone

Who can touch the lotus blossoms

Of a long-forgotten past,

A stupa’s dream…

 

The Bharhut Stupa is one of the earliest surviving examples of Buddhist monument architecture in India, originally built in the 2nd century BCE during the Shunga Dynasty, likely over an earlier Mauryan foundation associated with Ashoka (very similar to the more popular Sanchi Stupa). What made Bharhut distinctive was its richly carved sandstone railings and gateways, depicting Jataka tales, yakshis, lotus medallions, and symbolic representations of the Buddha (before anthropomorphic images became common). The craftsmanship is narrative and descriptive rather than idealised, offering a rare glimpse into early Buddhist storytelling, regional artistic styles, and even cross-cultural influences such as subtle Hellenistic elements.

The site was brought back to scholarly attention in the 1870s by Alexander Cunningham, the founder of the Archaeological Survey of India. During his excavations, he documented and removed many of the sculptural fragments to preserve them from decay and looting. However, transporting these relics was not without mishap—some pieces were reportedly lost when a boat carrying them along the Ganges system sank, a reminder of the fragile journey from ruin to preservation. Cunningham’s work, though shaped by colonial priorities, was crucial in reconstructing Bharhut’s layout and bringing its artistic and historical significance to global attention. (There are some debates as to where the ship sank and some accounts report of a ship carrying these to the British Museum and sinking near Sri Lanka).

Today, a large portion of Bharhut’s surviving remains are still in India - housed in the Indian Museum, where the railings and gateways have been partially reassembled within gallery halls. Walking through these exhibits can feel much like what your poem evokes—fragments of a once-grand stupa, now silent yet eloquent, arranged in a controlled space far from their original landscape. The carvings still retain their narrative vitality, but their displacement also underscores a quiet loss: the transformation of a living sacred site into an archaeological memory, preserved yet removed from its original context.

Cover image: https://kevinstandagephotography.wordpress.com/2024/01/30/indian-museum-kolkata-the-bharhut-gallery/

 

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