Memories of Mahanagar



City of Lights.

City of Joy.

City of Palaces.

Calcutta. Kolkata.

The city has many names. But if you want to keep it simple, ‘Mahanagar’ is enough.

Not a city. But a Megacity.

Not just any megacity. The megacity.

For this is where it all began – Imperialism, days of the Raj, woes of partition, communism, Mohun Bagan, Eden Gardens, poets, rebels, filmmakers - the problem with Calcutta has always been where to start, leave alone the end.

It is a city with many dimensions – a well-cut sparkling diamond to the intellectually rich – those who start with Nandan, Max Mueller Bhavan, Boi Mela and Writers’ building – to the proletariat who see in the City’s veins the rebellious spirit that alone can redeem the motherland.

For many, Mahanagar is an emotion – that which cannot be seen through our mortal vision but needs a layered experience to gather over time. These are the Mirnal Sens and the Sarat Boses of everyday life, who see in the city a kaleidoscope that transcends past and future, rich and poor, art deco and patachitra.

Somewhere perhaps, this is the closest to the shadow of the truth that is Calcutta. To perceive this – seeing it is impossible – one has to walk the many lanes and bylanes of North Calcutta, just as she has to zoom through the asphalt of EM Bypass. One has to taste the shorshe Ilish at the Park, just as she has to eat the kati rolls of Park Street and the Jhal muri of Victoria. One has to flip through coffee table books at Oxford just as she to smell the used books at College Street and Golpark.

That emotion will lie at the convergence of ancient cathedrals and Armenian churches with the memoni mosques and Jain temples, at the merger of Kolkata’s aloo biryani and Mocambo’s finest continental, at the confluence of Kaji Najrul’s Shyama-sangeet with the latest in Bengali rock. And of course, it won’t be enough.

The current anthology is a dedication to these emotional dreamscapes of the city.

Mahanagar has not just been home to me, it has been an intellectual oasis, a philosophical sanctuary, a literary refuge to rejuvenate the artist in me every time I have lost my way. The one geographic constant to stabilise the vacillations of a wandering mind.

I – like countless many – have received a lot, knowingly or unknowingly from this city of love. It is my turn to give back a sliver, a humble attempt to keep enriching the intellectual pride of a city that stays forever beautiful no matter her age.

This is my memoir that I have attempted something to remind me of a Rathin Mitra artwork or a poem in Geetabitan.

These are my recollections of a fascinating city, that refuses to be contained in memory…


6th July, 2026

(Introduction to my latest anthology : Memories of Mahanagar,)

  

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