After a wearied day,
I
suddenly yearn for Biryani,
But
not just any biryani –
The
heart skips Awadh and Aminia,
And
strangely drifts
To
the noise and dirt of Bandra Station.
There,
beyond the logjams
Of
autos and Padmini taxis,
And
the constant stream of passengers
At
the busy station
Lies
an old-fashioned building
Stirring
taste buds for 90 years
Ah
Lucky’s – how I miss
That
succulent and soft mutton biryani
That
aroma, that taste…
But
then I realise
I
have now forgotten the taste
Of
that legendary dish
How
much more
Can
a life be exiled
That
memories drift away this far?
I
call an old friend, an accomplice
Partners-in-crime
In
kebabs and biryani
We
laugh after ages
Talking
of the hot summers
The
long weary days at work
And
the finale -
Late
evenings of tasty food
The
endless moaning of work
And
the never-ending streams
Of
nicotine, thums up
And
the constant milling of people
The
honking of cars
The
chugging of trains
The
clatter of spoon against empty plates
For
a few moments, Mumbai’s universe
Is
recreated
The
lost planets are aligned
The
stars reoriented
And
the sun simmers
In
a big pot of spicy biryani
The
people have all moved on
They
have left Mumbai
Carrying
little boxes of memories
Just
as much as
They
left behind invisible parts
A
smile, sobs, unsaid goodbyes
But
in a single moment
Like
Atlantis,
The
universe collapses
And
I return to the absolute silence
Of
this Sydney suburb
A
street light instead of my sun
My partner too has grown old
He
too displaced in exile,
Dusts
the browned albums of time;
We
keep talking of older days
‘But
the taste Vishnu,’ I
exclaim
‘How
can I get it back?’
I
can imagine him smiling
On
the other side of the phone
Cigarette
in hand,
Looking
out
An imaginary empty dish
Diligently
cleaned of rice and meat
‘You can always go back to Lucky’s my friend,’
He
speaks finally
‘But can you go back to Lucky’s….’
I
imagine the smoke of his cigarette
Drifting
like a tendril of time
From
a café from many years ago…
No
visit to Mumbai is quite complete without a stop at Lucky Restaurant, Bandra,
an institution dating back to 1938. Its succulent mutton biryani, fragrant rice
and old-world charm offer more than a memorable meal. Set amidst the bustling
chaos of Bandra, it is a slice of everyday Mumbai — where railway commuters,
locals and food lovers converge. If you do visit Mumbai, skip the polished
dining experiences for an afternoon; come here for the biryani, stay for the
atmosphere, and savour a little piece of Bombay's culinary history.
12th November, 2026


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