Clownfish

 


There, not far from rocky sands:

Rolled-up trousers to the knees,

We were staring with amazement eyes -

An anemone in the wonder seas

 

And swirling in its thousand arms,

In bands of orange, black and white

Came clownfish two - no three and four

Hiding shy, in low-tide light

 

Reflecting sunlight in their scales,

As if jewels in the tropic Bay,

No snorkel-mask, in naked sight

Here they swim, in wonder play

 

For, in depth of seas, had I searched for these

But hard to find are Nemo’s lot,

And here they were, on a walking tour

On the rocks of Neil, a coral spot

 

And this the icing on a tropic day

After countless corals, rainbow hues,

And crabs in purple, green and gold,

And tetra, surgeon, angel blues

 

Imagine then, the treasures still

The deeper waters, in sunlight dance

Paradise isles that beckon still

In the magic of the Andamans…


21st June’2024

 

While Havelock takes the indubitable first prize for any trip to the Andamans, nearby Neil, its southern neighbour puts up a powerful fight in its runner-up position. Smaller but blessed with the same coral-white, silicate beaches in all cardinal directions, Neil Island or Shaheed Dweep is akin to a beautifully bedecked jewel box – a hidden alcove filled with corals here, a natural bridge formed from wind erosion there, sunset kissing cliffs farther away, and an islandly pristineness almost everywhere. Perhaps one of the last places of the subcontinent that was settled formally – refugees from the 1965 war were relocated here opening up Neil to human habitation – Neil island is everything you can imagine in a coral tropical island and perhaps even more. Tourism is playing its usual bipolar role of bringing prosperity at the expense of natural habitat loss but with higher awareness of sustainability, there is hope. All its beaches are worthy of getting an early-stage blue-flag before tourism starts peaking to the point of little return.

One of my most memorable experiences here was a walking guided tour – where we got to traverse in low tide, around coral reefs of varied shapes, while the gin-coloured waters sprinkled with tinsel coloured fish everywhere, looked like a gigantic open-air aquarium. In the backdrop of the hollowed out natural bridge (often called Howrah Bridge loosely) it was an unforgettable experience, culminating with spotting clownfish not even 20 metres from the rocky shore. Trained by the government, the local guides were not only earning a livelihood, but were also guiding us visitors on how to walk around without damaging the wildlife. (There was even the promise of spotting dugongs but that was stretching our luck to an insane level bordering on nearly impossible).

There were two signs of hope – one, sustainable development in current times, compared to the blatant uncaring growth that has decimated a lot of beauty elsewhere on the mainland, and the fact that there were more islands in the sprawling archipelago, left to themselves, with minimal and contained habitation, that will hopefully stay undisturbed, and where dugongs and manatees perhaps gracefully glide on shallow waters as they have done for millennia…

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